I suppose there’s some blending in the definitions of these two terms, but I think of bootlegs as merchandise that uses intellectual property without permission and counterfeits are merchandise that directly copy products with the intent to fool others into thinking it’s authentic.
During the 2026 NBA Finals I saw a lot of talk about unofficial Knicks merch (mostly shirts) designed by individuals and sold on the street. Complex’s instagram had an interesting video on the allure of bootleg designs over less interesting / more expensive official designs. Fashion publication Glossy had an article “What the people want’: Bootleg sports merchandise is pushing licensed brands to step up their game”… it’s behind a paywall, but you can get the idea from their instagram post.
During the World Cup Adidas’ most-sold jersey was team Mexico, which sold for $100 to $150. At the same time bootleg jerseys could be found on the street for like $25. I myself simply wore a green shirt to the Mexico game watch parties. I saw a lot of talk about how counterfeit jerseys sold in Mexican communities benefited everyday people, whereas official merch is affordable only to affluent people and benefits the largest sportswear manufacturer in Europe.
When I was like 12 years old I bought a fake Rolex from a guy on the sidewalk in New York. It wasn’t a very convincing copy. I think it was maybe $25 in 1990s dollars, and today you can’t buy a real Rolex for less than $5,000. I thought my fake watch was so cool. It was cool because it wasn't real. Only rich adults can buy a Rolex, but I had one, and I was just a kid!
My own Rather Keen designs have been directly copied by mysterious makers, and their poor quality knockoffs sometimes appear on Etsy, directly competing with my authentic designs. It feels bad! So why am I intrigued by bootlegs and counterfeits of corporate products? It’s because there’s something of a Robin Hood vibe going on—regular folk profiting from huge corporations and benefitting other regular people. That’s a refreshing change from the usual dynamic of huge corporations catering to the affluent. So, basically I'm saying I'm not so bothered by identity theft that targets a massive corporation.
I'm not a knowledgeable Watch Guy, but I have noticed a lot of Casio watches seem to be clearly inspired by Rolex. I mean, check out the Casio MTP1302D-3AVT vs the Rolex Oyster. I think I might be like Mamdani and get myself a Casio. I suppose it's better to be a sincere $90 inspired-by, rather than a $130 deception.
Read This
Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem is a fascinating read. In the 1980s Dapper Dan was making jackets emblazoned with the Gucci logo. These designs looked nothing like what Gucci actually sold, and they were so hot. The cops often raided his store... but flash forward to today and Gucci now capitalizes on his popularity by collaborating with him officially.
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We Love Boosters is the newest comedy by Boots Riley. Boosters are the real-life people who physically steal luxury products and then sell them on the street. That’s not the same thing as bootlegs, but this film explores the related theme of corporations taking from street style (especially black communities), but those people can’t afford the luxury brand’s resulting product. Here’s an interview discussing this subject on The Daily Show.